For the Japanese chef behind Melbourne’s 279, leftover rice topped with grilled fish and hot broth makes for a light, umami-laden meal
For the Melbourne-based Japanese chef Kantaro Okada, the base of a dish is of utmost importance: “In ochazuke, the broth, the dashi, is probably the most important – not the topping, not the grilled fish.
“I feel like in a lot of dishes the main ingredient is quite important, but for us I think what surrounds it and the base [is more important] ... By perfecting that, or striving to, we’re very confident it doesn’t matter what goes on top.”
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