Our resident perfectionista gets busy with these moreish Hispanic doughnut-tubes
I’ve always quietly assumed I didn’t like churros. Quietly, because to deny the attraction of these hot, crisp, sugar-dusted sticks of deep-fried dough is surely to reveal oneself as the worst kind of joyless grinch. To my relief, however, it turns out it’s the Spanish habit of eating them for breakfast that was the problem to my Marmite-loving palate – after 11am, I’m a fully paid-up member of the cinnamon-scented, greasy-fingered churros appreciation society.
Popular throughout the Spanish- and Portuguese-speaking world in a variety of forms, from huge spirals to delicate twists, churros are often said to have been brought to the Iberian peninsula from China, though fried dough has been eaten in the region since classical times – the contentious pairing with chocolate is a legacy of the brutal Spanish conquest of the Americas. With a Madrid chocolatería almost as far away right now as a stand in a Manila mall or a Colombian street stall, I bring you the good news that the best churros are the freshest churros – and they’re almost as easy to make as they are to eat.
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