Rejoice in these meatballs wrapped in cabbage and braised in white wine – not a flash as a tomato sauce, maybe, but these parcels pack some real flavour
After two weeks of orange, Rome and the region of Lazio is yellow again. Trattorie and restaurants can open for lunch, or until 6pm (although no more than four at a table), and bars can serve espresso at their bar, rather than despatching them through the door. More kids are back at school, some museums are open (so long as you book in advance) and half of public transport is moving, although movement between regions is still restricted. Masks, pump dispensers of clear gel and masking tape dividing shop floors now seem as much a part of the city as one-way streets and umbrella pines.
Conversations in queues invariably involve the word tampone (as in “swab” and the Italian way of saying test), le vaccinazioni (who has and who hasn’t) and colours – giallo (yellow) arancone (orange) and rosso (red) – that define regions and life at the moment.
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