I’m all for respecting wine’s risks. But let’s not discard its soulful pleasures
When it comes to falling for the seductive self-delusion that tells us it’s possible to have our cake and eat it, wine drinkers have been second only to Brexiters. Not that you can blame us. The idea that wine is not a vice but a kind of hedonistic medicine has been hardwired in the culture since the emergence of the French paradox in the 1980s, which was widely presented in the press as a doctor’s free pass for gourmandising.
A French diet that was high in cheese, red meat and, crucially, daily draughts of red wine was, in the more sensationalised and optimistic accounts, not merely claimed to be safe; some argued it might be healthier than the abstinent alternative.
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