This month, How to Eat tackles that most autumnal of eggs. Are they best on toast, crumpet or potato waffle? With hot sauce, parmesan or bacon? Or do you monastically eat them au naturel?
Normally, seasonality is an agricultural fact. But for How to Eat (HTE) – the series identifying how best to enjoy Britain’s favourite foods – there is something unmistakably autumnal about the poached egg.
It is in October, as temperatures plummet, energy levels sag, noses run, boilers rattle and, on damp Wednesday nights, you find yourself incapable of cooking anything more substantial, that the poached egg comes into its own. It is hibernation food. Poorly food. Knackered food. Food that feels ever so slightly like giving up, which in that lack of ambition offers delicious liberation.
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