Almost a cross between a crepe and cannelloni, these cheese-smothered pancakes should be enjoyed at any time of year
The first is always a dud, a rumple in the corner of the frying pan. The second isn’t much better, ripped and more irritating than the first – how can I have forgotten how to do this?’ By the third, I am concentrating on the tilt and swirl, the jolting shake of the pan. “Up, u-u-p,” shouts my eight-year-old, so I send it up and the circle spins like a fat kite, then flumps back down into the pan. Not great, but not bad for a once-a-year pancake maker.
Smells open wormholes back in time, and tastes are like mini evocations: food is always dragging me somewhere. Pancakes take me back to the age my son is now, and our old kitchen, with its red tiles and sliding cupboards, and the windows above the sink that were always steamed up. I would stand as close as possible to the pan, watching the batter spread and the pale edges bubble, leaving the “up, u-u-p” to my younger brother and sister.
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