There’s no quick answer to making a proper soupe de poissons, unfortunately, and – surprise, surprise – much of the jarred stuff isn’t genuine
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I love jarred soupe de poissons, but it’s hard to find in the UK. I’d like an easy recipe, because all the ones I’ve tried are very complicated.
Peter, Chippenham, Wiltshire
Ah, fish soup … along with onions on strings, La Marseillaise and gilets jaunes, there’s little that’s more evocative of la belle France. The thing is, though, many of those alluringly branded supermarché jars aren’t true soupes de poissons at all, but mass-produced imposters. As Henry Harris, one of the UK’s most respected purveyors of Gallic cuisine, explains: “The real deal should be a murky broth of immense flavour, not claggy and rusty-red.” In other words, the dense texture of some jarred soups isn’t a sign of superior contents; it’s culinary subterfuge. “They’re thickened with cornflour,” Harris says, “which makes a gloop you can stand a spoon up in.”
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