Asparagus: so good with nothing more than a knob of butter, but unbeatable in a ricotta tart with miso and black garlic, in Korean spicy pancakes, or with garlic pesto and tempura onions
I have made a U-turn with asparagus. I used to advocate pairing it only with mild ingredients (and not too many of them), so as not to mask its fine flavour, but I now believe it can, in fact, endure a fair bit of goings-on while still keeping its asparagussy truth. Yes, a knob of butter or a drizzle of olive oil, with perhaps a poached egg on top, is a fine way to serve the spears, but fermented ingredients with built-in intensity – soy, black garlic, miso, gochujang chilli paste – are equally good partners. In fact, they shed a funky new light on the old asparagus.
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