Bright, zingy fish recipes flavoured with ginger and citrus
I am first in the queue for the charred and the roasted; for skin crisped and branded by the grill; flesh with edges sticky with notes of sugar and smoke; shells and bones that demand to be cracked and sucked.
But life shouldn’t be all about sizzle and spice. I like delicate treatments, too: snow-white fish that has edged slowly towards tenderness in a calm, herb-scented broth or a cloud of aromatic steam. Shellfish in a bowl of dill-freckled stock or steamed in a pan with white wine, shallots and parsley, the warm liquor to be sponged up with crusty bread.
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