This deliciously citrussy pudding, with its jammy, caramelised top, is just the ticket for a cold winter’s evening
To me, January always smells of marmalade – the frantic rush to make as much as possible during the sour Seville orange’s fleeting season, and the herculean effort to finish up last year’s stock in preparation. Not that you need any such excuse to make this deliciously citrussy pudding, as warming and fluffy as a big bobble hat and equally welcome on a cold winter’s evening.
Like syrup sponge and jam roly-poly, marmalade pudding belongs to a category often rather dismissively referred to as “nursery puddings”, a term that carries an offputting whiff of the Rees-Mogg. Whether or not you grew up with them, such dishes are our finest culinary hour – I would say export, except we don’t really. Perhaps you have to live in the UK’s peculiarly damp, grey climate to truly appreciate them; as historian Dr Annie Gray writes in the foreword to Regula Ysewjin’s glorious survey Pride and Pudding, “pudding and Britishness are inexplicably linked”. Stodgy and sweet, comforting and solid – whatever happens this year, at least we’ll always have pudding.
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